Korean fusion restaurant leads top-notch food, service, ambiance

Sute. It’s easily the best restaurant in Kokomo that almost no one knows about.

Yet.

It opened last fall as a Korean barbeque with little fanfare. The idea was that opening a high-scale restaurant would attract many of the new residents coming to Kokomo because of the StarPlus Energy battery plant. Unfortunately, plans changed for the factory, and the thousands of South Koreans originally expected to work in the city didn’t arrive.

That meant Sute had to change its tactics as well. A new menu. Higher quality food. New management, and a new approach. The result is a dining experience unlike anything in central Indiana.

I had the opportunity to dine at Sute earlier this week, and I took along three friends. While I enjoy new foods and dining experiences, I would not call myself a “foodie” or a connoisseur. Fortunately, my dining companions were much more attuned to fine dining, and specifically South Korean cuisine.

Joining me was Bob Stephenson, executive director of the Literacy Coalition of Howard County. I have dined many times with Bob over the years, and he is not shy about voicing his opinion about a meal. He isn’t impressed by gimmicks or dishes he can find at an average chain restaurant. And he knows steak. This is an important quality that comes into play during our visit.

Also, with me was Katie DePoy. She is a great fan of all things Korean. She loves the food. She loves K-Pop. She travels all over the United States, and she knows great Korean cuisine when she sees it and tastes it.

Finally, we were graced by the presence of Shawn Hilton. The Grand Poobah of comic book geekdom and a former military brat, Shawn spent some of his early years in South Korea while his father was stationed there. He appreciates South Korean food and knows exactly how it should be prepared. Yet, his tastes don’t run very exotic. If a restaurant wants to attract the diner that is cautious about subjecting their tastebuds to new experiences, Shawn is the poster child for that demographic.

But enough about us.

From the outside, it would be easy to overlook Sute. Nestled along the cobblestone street in the 500 block of North Buckeye, the restaurant is very unassuming. The signage is minimal and demure. It gives no indication of what lies beyond the entrance.

What happens once you enter the restaurant feels almost mystical. The décor demands attention without a hint of garishness. Black marble dining tables with barbeque grills installed in every one of them. The walls feature contrasting woods that, when coupled with the lighting fixtures, feel like an homage to the subtler design choices of the 1960s. A large front window allows sufficient daylight for lunches and brunches, but the warm hues of the wood emerge as evening arrives.

There is an ambiance that immediately informs the diner that this will not be your average evening meal. Shawn described it best.

“The first thing you have to look at when you walk in is the ambiance,” said Shawn. “There are only a handful of restaurants – maybe three in Kokomo – that convey this level of class and culture. It definitely has an upscale feel for Kokomo.

“It's the kind of place you're going to want to bring somebody for an anniversary, a birthday. When you want to impress the relatives, this is the place you want to come to. And that's before you sit down to see the menu or look at the meal.”

But a great restaurant needs more than a pretty face. It must deliver on the menu. Sute hired Julio Bojorquez, a restaurant manager from Chicago who specializes in “fusion” restaurants. Simply, he is reshaping the menu to incorporate flavors and techniques found in American, Mexican, and Thai cuisine.

And the centerpiece of that fusion is steak. While there are many fine offerings on the menu, which include chicken, seafood, and even vegetarian options, Sute is banking on steak as a big draw. But to establish themselves in that market, the quality must exceed the average Friday night at a chain restaurant.

Sute starts with cocktails (and mocktails) as well as a solid selection of appetizers, each with attractive descriptions that fire up the imagination. But just reading the text on the menu doesn’t complete the experience. That’s where Charity came in.

Charity is a spunky young lady who seems to have an innate knack for service. She enthusiastically described the experience ahead of us with every menu selection and was unafraid to make suggestions and help us settle on our meal. She also made the kind of small talk that engages the diner, conveying a legitimate level of care.

For those of you who understand how excellent service improves a meal, you will certainly value what the staff at Sute offers. Mr. Bojorquez also made the rounds to each table, ensuring that no one felt anything less than welcome at the restaurant.

Thanks to her advice, we tried the Golden Square Bites – a fried, bite-sized appetizer garnished with chimichurri – and the Golden Beef Mandu, which are beef dumplings that are a staple of Korean cuisine. Both were worthy offerings that didn’t sit heavily before the main course arrived.

As soon as the main course was brought to the table, I knew I was in for something special. I ordered the 10 oz. prime ribeye. I took a photo before it hit the grill. Take a look at the marbling on that meat.

I left it on the grill to get the steak to medium, which was almost too long. But the result was astounding. No gristle or gummy fat to cut around, and not a single bite that even hinted at toughness. And the flavor was rich and hearty with that slight buttery aftertaste that comes with good marbling.

I also chose a “side” of saku ahi tuna. There was enough tuna on that dish for a full meal! And since it is sushi-grade tuna, it can be consumed raw or cooked. I cooked it because I’m entirely too American, and I was just as impressed with it as I was the steak.

This add-on is new to the Sute menu, Mr. Bojorquez explained, as is the lobster tail, which can be added to any of the barbeque menu items.

The dishes come with a selection of additional spices that can be applied, which really appealed to Katie as she savored a generous portion of pork belly.

“The pork belly was fantastic,” said Katie. “Cooked on the grill, the truffle salt they offered took it up a notch overall. I've been to several restaurants like this, and Sute still gave me something new and different, which I appreciated.”

Bob went for the 6 oz. Filet Mignon, which is also offered in a 10 oz. cut. But the smaller cut didn’t leave him feeling shorted on the experience.

“I cooked it myself, here on the on the grill, and it was perfect,” said Bob. “The sauces and the salt really set the set the meat off with flavor! I'm coming back for more, absolutely!?”

Shawn doesn’t protest when I accuse him of hating flavor. He’s a guy who doesn’t get excited over sauces, toppings, or spices. His idea of spicy is breading. At this meal, he chose fried chicken, but after seeing what the rest of us ordered, he finally bowed to the flavor gods.

“I am a particularly picky eater,” admitted Shawn. “I want the most basic thing. And my fried chicken was good. But then I was allowed to pick off of some of the more adventurous plates. The steaks served at this table were exquisite! The meat quality was some of the best I've ever seen in any place in Kokomo, bar none.”

Somehow, we also found room for dessert. Mr. Bojorquez explained that the Koreans don’t really indulge in dessert. It wasn’t on the menu when Sute opened because it simply isn’t a part of that culture. But it works perfectly with the new “fusion” approach.

Bob and Shawn selected the yakgwa topped with vanilla ice cream. A yakgwa is a honey cookie native to South Korea. Both gentlemen enjoyed the dish. Katie and I went for the Ganache Kiss, a confection similar to cheesecake encapsulated in chocolate with a drizzle of fudge.

“Oh, the dessert!” exclaimed Katie. The Ganache Kiss. It’s almost cheesecake-like, but it has a little more subtle flavor, which was good because the chocolate was really rich. They balance out in a good way.”

At the risk of stumbling into the world of hyperbole, I will say that our experience at Sute was among the best I’ve ever experienced at a restaurant in Kokomo. It was reminiscent of the quality the Sycamore Grille brought to the table when it first opened 25 years ago. It feels like the next step up from what A. Michael’s offered during its short run on the west side and downtown.

In short, this is the best dining Kokomo has to offer today, and it’s just getting started. Already, the staff is working on brunch and lunch offerings at modest price points and occasional limited-time special menu items to spur interest. Sute won’t be a secret much longer.

“Overall, this is a top-notch, exquisite level of food, ambiance, and service,” said Shawn. “It’s some of the best I've ever seen in the city.”

The Spread

Cocktails: Shin Sa Old-Fashioned, Lychee Peachy

Appetizers: Golden Square Bites, Golden Beef Mandu

Main Courses: Pork Belly, Filet Mignon (6 oz.), Prime Ribeye (10 oz.), Classic Fried Chicken (boneless)

Add-ons: Saku Ahi Tuna

Dessert: Yakgwa and ice cream, The Ganache Kiss

The Price

Plan for $75 a head for a full meal like the one listed above, though there are menu items available on either side of that price point.